The way forward for footwear – will it embrace foot scans, a gaming engine, and ‘Tesla-like’ factories?

Jun 22, 2023 at 3:30 AM
The way forward for footwear – will it embrace foot scans, a gaming engine, and ‘Tesla-like’ factories?

Trainers are large enterprise.

Helped by celebrity collaborations, social media, and one-of-a-kind special editions that get followers queuing up outdoors shops on launch day, they’ve maybe by no means been as fascinating a style merchandise as they’re right now.

I deal with myself to the odd contemporary pair, often purchased on-line with a cursory look on the measurement. I simply assume they are going to match and if they do not, effectively, I can break them in – cue hobbling round with painful blisters for a number of weeks.

But that would all quickly be a distant, painful reminiscence. Asher Clark, scion of the Clarks shoe dynasty, has a grand plan for the “future of footwear” and so as to examine it, I needed to get my toes bodily measured.

Forget the tape measure and people bizarre shoe store gadgets, Clark as an alternative had me step on what seemed like a set of futuristic scales at the back of his Vivobarefoot retailer in central London, outfitted with a monitor that displayed the soles of my toes in actual time.

From the place I used to be inserting all my weight (an excessive amount of on the heels, not sufficient on the toes), to measurements for every part from “instep girth” to “arch height”, it was a far cry from “looks like a seven-and-a-half to me”.

Tom's foot scan
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I put an excessive amount of weight on my heels, it appears

Not lengthy after, this scales-like machine had remodeled a scan of my toes right into a 3D mannequin and despatched it to my cellphone, able to type the idea of a bespoke pair of footwear.

This, says Clark, is how we’ll all need to get our new trainers at some point.

“Ten thousand years ago, humans made shoes out of local materials,” he says.

“Now, we have no choice but to do the same thing.”

Asher and brother Galahad are the seventh era of the Clark household and, 187 years on from the daybreak of a footwear dynasty, they launched Vivobarefoot in 2012 with the purpose of making footwear that make you’re feeling as near being bare-foot as potential.

They’re nearly plimsoll-like on the subject of weight and thinness. It takes time to get used to them in the event you’re used to pounding the pavement in regular trainers. But the Clarks are unapologetic of their perception that they’re higher for our toes, holding them nearer to the bottom in a wider, extra pure, place.

The subsequent step is to make them higher for the planet – and that is the place my video game-looking toes are available in.

Tom's feet in 3D
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Look mum, my toes are within the metaverse!

Made to order

Clark says: “We are effectively using modern technology to make the shoes we did millennia ago.

“All toes are completely different, so we are able to solely achieve this effectively when it comes to placing the right shoe in your toes.

“The shoe industry has a long, human-intensive chain of development. It takes a long time, it’s inefficient and slow because you’re ordering for stock. You’re making a huge bet as a business – ‘is this the right shoe, will people want it’ – well before you have them in stores.

“We’re attempting to maneuver in direction of an environment friendly, digital mannequin that’s made particular person by particular person, regionally.”

The Vivobiome shoes have the same plimsoll-like weight and feel as as the company's standard sneakers
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The Vivobiome footwear have the identical plimsoll-like weight and really feel as as the corporate’s customary sneakers

The first step for a “Vivobiome” buyer could be to scan their toes at residence with a smartphone app. It would use gaming engine Unreal to create their new footwear in 3D, allow them to customise them and even nearly attempt them on.

If they select to order, the footwear could be made utilizing 3D printing with native, sustainable supplies. Clark says it could be lower than a month from scanning your toes to sporting the peerlessly sized footwear.

It’s an formidable thought, first pitched to attendees on the COP26 climate summit in Glasgow, and one which seeks to disrupt an business that exhibits no signal of slowing down.

The company first showed off the concept at COP26 in 2021
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The firm first confirmed off the idea at COP26 in 2021

Winning over the ‘sneakerheads’

Encompassing mega manufacturers like Nike, Adidas, Converse, and Vans, the worldwide coach market was price greater than $70bn (£54bn) final yr and is projected to exceed $100bn (£78bn) by 2026.

Given the seemingly unstoppable demand, whether or not it’s to exchange your previous All Stars or seize these “limited edition” Stranger Things Vans, it ought to come as no shock that an astonishing 20 billion pairs of footwear are made yearly – lots of them trainers.

And maybe much more astonishingly, 90% of them are destined to finish up in landfill.

Clark is unapologetic in his evaluation that the planet merely cannot take any extra of it – and his agency’s formidable Vivobiome initiative needs to be up and working in full by the center of subsequent yr.

Powering it will likely be “Tesla-like speed factories”, the place – like Elon Musk‘s electrical automotive agency – your entire shoe-making course of goes beneath one roof. The first one might be in Ireland in 2024, with extra to observe in Germany and the US.

FILE PHOTO: A general view of the Tesla gigafactory in Austin, Texas, U.S., February 28, 2023. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo
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Tesla’s factories have been cited as some extent of inspiration for Vivobarefoot’s proposed shoe crops

The worth catch

Vivobarefoot’s purpose of serving to the planet will solely go far if the footwear are inexpensive – and you may actually choose up just a few pairs of sneakers for the value of what the corporate thinks it’s going to cost for theirs.

“It’s expensive to do things differently,” admits Clark, who’s concentrating on a £260 launch worth.

In the meantime, the corporate’s launched a “pioneer programme” to place the initiative by its paces. People who efficiently apply will get three pairs and might be requested to provide suggestions.

Foot scans will start subsequent month, with the pairs rolled out between August and February.

Word of mouth will possible be essential as to if Vivobiome makes a quick begin come launch, as there is not any signal of a Michael Jordan ready within the wings to energy the model to glory by himself.

“A company like Nike has built an emotional legacy with amazing athletes and cool products,” says Clark.

“But I challenge that’s the past. This is looking to the next phase.”

You cannot doubt the ambition – however for now, Vivobiome’s success is up within the Air.